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Submitted on
December 8, 2009
Image Size
537 KB


421 (who?)

Camera Data

Canon PowerShot A620
Shutter Speed
1/60 second
Focal Length
7 mm
Date Taken
Dec 7, 2009, 10:04:42 PM
Twilight Chill WIP Shots by Shadow-Wolf Twilight Chill WIP Shots by Shadow-Wolf
Ok, I promised I do WIP shots with explanations for this piece, so here it is! I used Prismacolor markers and acrylic paint for this. Contrary to popular belief, use very little colored pencil these days, and there is none in this piece.

Step 1
I used my lightbox to transfer my sketch to a piece of smooth bristol, using micron pens. I masked the edges of the piece off with artist's tape as well.

Step 2
Since this is a night/dusk lighting scenario, I start with a Mediterranean blue marker to block off shadow areas on the figure. Then using light tan and cornflower markers (lilac will also work) I shade over the blue areas to fully block in the shadows.

Step 3
Then I used the light tan and layered up the rest of the figure, dark umber and Mediterranean blue for the hair and nose, and clay rose, lilac and the same blue for the inside of the ears.

Step 4
Starting in on the trees now using the same Mediterranean blue to create the branches of the pine trees.

Step 5
It's important to use some of the same colors everywhere, so unify your color scheme. So here I use Lilac/Cornflower again on top of the blue.

Step 6
Trees are not purple (usually), so on top of this goes True Green. The lilac and blue colors underneath keep it cool enough that it still looks like dusk. The trees are still pretty light, but I'll address how to darken them up without ruining the color later.

Step 7
Holy cow, the sky! Using Salmon pink, Clay rose, Lilac and Light blue, I create a nice twilighty colored gradient for the sky. This usually takes a lot of layers, you'll want to put something behind your bristol so when the marker starts to leak through, it won't ruin whatever you have underneath it. I also started to block in the shadows for the building using the same colors/technique in step 2

Step 8
Using clay rose for the edges of the shadows (see where the color is a little warmer and darker before is hits the lit areas) and Sand, I flesh out the rest of the porch and side of the building.

Step 9
Scarf! =D

Step 10
Ok, here's where I ditched the markers and picked up the paint! I used a thin wash of Paynes grey and a teensy bit of dioxanine purple to darken the trees against the sky. I use this same wash color to darken the shadows on the building and porch, and a little on the figure as well. Then, mixing white, paynes grey, dioxanine purple and cobalt blue (creating a low light snow color) I start painting the snow on the pine trees.

Step 11
All the trees have snow on them!

Step 12
Using thin washes of white, I further define the steam coming off of the cup of tea/coffee/whathaveyou.

Final Step
The finished product! [link] Using an old toothbrush, I spatter some white paint on there to create the falling snow.

Feel free to ask any questions, hope you guys found this interesting!
Add a Comment:
marieliz Featured By Owner Aug 22, 2012  Student Artist
That so beautiful I could die,
I fail at coloring with marker and your so awesome at coloring your hands most be MAGICAL
rujiidragon Featured By Owner Jun 23, 2012  Student General Artist
This tutorial is awesome.:) I have 2 questions. Whenever I use a wet media, like watercolor and even marker, I always have the paper warped and wrinkled during the process making it almost impossible to go back and cleanup my mistakes. What are some ways to prevent this?
Also do you have a tutorial on shading with color? (traditional and/or digital?)
Shadow-Wolf Featured By Owner Jun 23, 2012  Professional Digital Artist
I'm surprised you are having this issue with markers actually! What kind of paper are you using?

As for watercolor and paper buckling from that, I don't really work in watercolor so I'm not the one to ask. ^^;
rujiidragon Featured By Owner Jun 23, 2012  Student General Artist
Smooth Bristol board I bought from an art store it is relitively thick. I've also tried acrilics and I also get a similar problem.
BTW what brushes do you prefer using with acrilics?
Shadow-Wolf Featured By Owner Jun 23, 2012  Professional Digital Artist
I'm not surprised your bristol board is buckling under acrylics, I'd honestly just upgrade to another material, such as illustration board or canvas. I like to use angular "American Painter" brushes because they are the perfect blend of stiff/soft bristles, cheap, and durable. I tend to abuse the crap out of mine when painting in acrylics, and they've stood the test of time for me.
rujiidragon Featured By Owner Jun 23, 2012  Student General Artist
I also use canvas (both streched and unstretched) but it only looks good with paint only, and I tend to be very bad with just paint. I'll deffinetly look into geting illustation board. Also what sizes of brushes do you like to use?
Shadow-Wolf Featured By Owner Jun 23, 2012  Professional Digital Artist
My standard sizes are 6 (for blocking things in), 4 (for refining) and 2 (for details).
rujiidragon Featured By Owner Jun 24, 2012  Student General Artist
I'll make sure that I get plently of those sizes.

Thankyou very much for your time and info Shadow-Wolf.:) Your advice has already helped a ton!
DragonFlame123 Featured By Owner Jun 20, 2012  Student Traditional Artist
It's beautiful!
I have a few questions
Shadow-Wolf Featured By Owner Jun 21, 2012  Professional Digital Artist
Feel free to ask!
Add a Comment: